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Bernina Express panoramic train seat reservation between Chur and Tirano
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My list of various destinations and scenic train rides in Switzerland is getting longer and longer. In the summer of 2022, I was finally able to cross off one item: a trip on the Bernina Express.
In the next lines, I'll take you on a journey from the Swiss glaciers to the Italian palm trees. I hope I can inspire you to take a trip with the Bernina Express.
The Bernina Express train runs between Chur or St. Moritz and Tirano in Italy. From Tirano, the Bernina Express bus then runs to Lugano.
For my trip I changed the route slightly. I start in Chur and travel via Pontresina and Ospizio Bernina to Poschiavo. In Poschiavo I have a lunch break and drive back afterwards.
But let's start from the beginning..
My Bernina Express train departs Chur at 08:32 and travels to Tirano. The journey leads through the UNESCO World Heritage Rhaetian Railway at the Albula line, through 55 tunnels and over 196 bridges. Many viaducts await along the entire route, which the Bernina Express crosses or even uses as loop tunnels between Bergün and Preda. The crossing of two famous viaducts, the Landwasser and the Kreisviadukt, is also on the program.
Armed with a fine croissant and a hot coffee, I wait at the Chur train station for the Bernina Express to arrive. On the platform there are already information boards showing where the different cars are located. You can feel the anticipation of all passengers.
During the entire train ride, two stewards take care of the guests' well-being. In addition, there is a train attendant who checks reservations and tickets. I really like the fact that the stewards are always sharing insider information about the route with the passengers. You can feel their enthusiasm and passion for their job.
In addition to the information from the stewards, there are always train announcements about the landscape or historical background to various buildings, such as castles.
Shortly after the start, the train already begins to gain altitude and the journey heads towards Thusis. The village lies at 697 meters above sea level and is the starting point of the UNESCO World Heritage route.
With a view of beautiful valleys, gorges and mountains, the train travels along the Albula line to Bergün/Bravuogn. Before reaching the small village at 1372 m above sea level, the first highlight of the Bernina Express already awaits me: the Landwasser Viaduct. It is one of the most famous structures in Graubünden and the landmark of the Rhaetian Railway. It is crossed by around 22,000 trains per year.
The crossing of the viaduct is rather short, because it ends quickly with the entrance to the Landwasser tunnel, which takes us in the direction of Bergün/Bravuogn. If you want to enjoy the Landwasser Viaduct in peace and take a great souvenir photo, there is a viewpoint directly under the viaduct. However, for this you have to leave the Bernina Express train.
After the departure in Bergün/Bravuogn, the Bernina Express travels through several helical tunnels up to Preda. Here it gains 417 meters in altitude. It is special that the train changes the valley side again and again and we can see Bergün from all sides. The train continues through the well-known Albula tunnel in the direction of the Upper Engadine. As the train comes out of the tunnel, a different and even more beautiful landscape awaits me. The higher the track gets, the less forest there is. But the more rock and glaciers.
Shortly after Pontresina I also get an incredible view of the Morteratsch glacier. Once again I realize how beautiful and diverse Switzerland is. I am so overwhelmed by the landscape.
To the left and to the right, more highlights are constantly added: Muottas Muragl, Piz Bernina, reservoirs and many more. By the way, you will also get to see this part if you start your trip in St. Moritz. From here on, the route from Chur is the same as the one from St. Moritz.
With my cell phone camera I take one souvenir photo after the other. The ride flies by and soon the train has reached the highest point of the Bernina line: Ospizio Bernina (2253 m above sea level).
Before the train stops at Ospizio Bernina station, the journey passes three lakes: Lej Pitschen, Lej Nair and Lago Bianco. The two lakes Lej Pitschen and Lej Nair (Schwarzsee) flow into the river Inn and later into the Black Sea.
Lago Bianco, on the other hand, is a reservoir with a milky white color that comes from glacier water and sand. The special thing about Lago di Bianco is that besides being a reservoir, it is also a watershed. The water east of the lake flows into the Black Sea and the water south of the lake flows into the Adriatic Sea
The milky water, the purple flowers on the lakeshore and the Cambrena glacier in the background make a beautiful panorama. Fortunately, Lago di Bianco is about three kilometers long. So I can enjoy the view for a long time, because the train line runs along the lake
The journey continues to the next stop and a restaurant that can only be reached by train or on foot: Alp Grüm.
The train stops here for about 15 min, so I can enjoy the view of a small lake, the glacier and the old mountain inn and take a photo. With a bell, the train attendant symbolizes to the passengers that it is time to board and move on
Now the train zigzags downhill towards Valposchiavo. On the descent, I notice that the train loses more than 1000 meters in altitude in just one hour. The forest immediately becomes denser and the mild climate with the warm rays of the sun can be felt through the large panoramic windows
I enjoy the last minutes in the Bernina Express before the train reaches Poschiavo station. This is the end of the line for me on the Bernina Express. The small, charming village and a delicious lunch are waiting for me.
Poschiavo has a pretty village center with numerous restaurants. For a short stay and to have something to eat, Poschiavo is perfect. If you want to spend several hours or even a day in Poschiavo, you can go to Lago di Poschiavo and take a cooling dip in the lake if the weather is nice
The train continues from Poschiavo to Tirano. For me it's after lunch with the regional trains back towards Alp Grüm. But before that I make a stop in Cavaglia, where I visit the Glacier Garden Cavaglia. The Glacier Garden is only a few minutes walk from the train station and is open to all visitors free of charge. At the exit there is the possibility to give a voluntary donation.
In the Glacier Garden you can see the glacier mills that were built about 11'000 years ago and you can even climb down some of them. You can also visit the Cavaglia gorge.
After the short but interesting visit in the Glacier Garden, I take the next regional train to Alp Grüm. On the outward journey, I liked the view and the atmosphere on Alp Grüm so much that a stop on the way back is definitely a must for me
On the terrace of the restaurant Alp Grüm I enjoy the peaceful and quiet atmosphere. A few last souvenir photos have to be taken, of course. With the view towards the Palü glacier, I discover some great hiking trails and already plan my next trips..
As already mentioned, the route of the Bernina Express does not end in Poschiavo, but continues on to Tirano. After departing from Poschiavo station, the train heads towards Lago di Poschiavo. The route passes directly by the popular bathing lake and you have an incredibly beautiful view of the lake
After Lago di Poschiavo, the next highlight of the Bernina Express train route soon follows: the circular viaduct in Brusio. Here the train makes a 360 degree turn on the viaduct to overcome the height. The viaduct is considered the most spectacular structure on the Bernina line.
After Brusio follows the final station of the train: Tirano. You immediately notice, due to the tropical climate, that the train has covered many meters in altitude and that you are now at 429 meters above sea level. But before reaching the station, the train passes through the small town and the famous church "Basilica Madonna". So you get a little sightseeing tour through Tirano at the end of your train journey.
After a short stop and time for lunch, you have the option of continuing to Lugano by Bernina Express bus. The bus route goes along the vineyards of Valtellina, Lake Como and Lake Lugano. The route is very varied and takes about three hours. Again, you can get additional information through the InfoT(r)ainment system.
The route is the pure opposite of the train route. Here you will see more of a Mediterranean landscape and significantly fewer mountains.
There is no restaurant on board the Bernina Express. The stewards come after the train ride with a minibar through all the cars and serve you hot and cold drinks, wine, spirits, Plättli with cheese or Salsiz, various pastries and of course souvenirs.
Fabienne's Tip:
If you have enough time in the morning at the train station in Chur when you change trains, I recommend you to get a fine coffee and a croissant for the journey. In my opinion, this tastes better than from the minibar. And you have more variations.
The timetable of the Bernina Express depends on the season. While the train runs all year round between Chur or St. Moritz and Tirano, the bus between Tirano and Lugano runs only from the end of April to the end of November. You can make the trip in both directions. Start either in Lugano, in St. Moritz or in Chur.
If you want to travel the whole Bernina Express route by train and bus, you have to either
Route | Departure | Arrival | Season |
---|---|---|---|
Chur - Tirano | 08:28 | 12:49 | all year |
Chur - Tirano | 13:34 | 17:59 | mid May to end of October |
St. Moritz - Tirano | 09:17 | 11:32 | mid May to end of October |
St. Moritz - Tirano | 13:17 | 15:31 | Mid May to end of October |
St. Moritz - Tirano | 16:14 | 18:39 | 2nd week April until end of October |
Tirano - Chur | 08:06 | 12:22 | mid May until end of October |
Tirano - Chur | 14:24 | 18:22 | all year |
Tirano - St. Moritz | 10:06 | 12:35 | 2nd week April until end of October |
Tirano - St. Moritz | 13:17 | 15:45 | mid May until end of October |
Tirano - St. Moritz | 16:06 | 18:25 | mid May until end of October |
route | departure | arrival |
---|---|---|
Lugano - Tirano | 10:00 | 13:00 |
Tirano - Lugano | 14:20 | 17:30 |
The Bernina Express Bus (lines 5950 and 5951) operates:
The price for the ticket with the Bernina Express consists of two components. On the one hand you need a ticket for the route, on the other hand there are the costs for the seat reservation.
All Swiss Rail tickets are valid on the Bernina Express. The prices in the table are for adults without discount.
Route | 2nd class (CHF) | 1st class (CHF) |
---|---|---|
Chur - Tirano one way | 63.00 | 111.00 |
Chur - Tirano return | 126.00 | 222.00 |
Chur - Poschiavo one way | 56.00 | 98.00 |
Chur - Poschiavo return | 112.00 | 196.00 |
St. Moritz - Tirano one way | 32.00 | 56.00 |
St. Moritz - Tirano return | 64.00 | 112.00 |
St. Moritz - Poschiavo one way | 23.80 | 41.80 |
St. Moritz - Poschiavo return | 47.60 | 83.60 |
A reservation is required in any case, even if the route costs nothing with certain tickets. Prices for seat reservations vary depending on the season and cost the same for 1st and 2nd class.
Season A lasts from the beginning of June to the end of September Season B lasts from the beginning of March to the end of May and from the beginning of October to the end of October Season C is valid in November and the first week of December
means of transport | season | price (CHF) |
---|---|---|
Bernina Express Train | Season A | 26.00 |
Bernina Express Train | Season B | 24.00 |
Bernina Express Train | Season C | 20.00 |
Bernina Express Bus | Season A | 16.00 |
Bernina Express Bus | Season B | 14.00 |
Bernina Express Bus | Season C | 10.00 |
Seat reservation in two compartments
I made the trip in 1st class. If you are also traveling in 1st class, I recommend reserving a seat in a double compartment. There are two seats opposite each other and you have much more space than in a four-seat compartment.
Savings day tickets
In order to get a cheap ticket, I can recommend you the Spartageskarten on the SBB website or SBB Mobile App. These are available with and without a Half-Fare Card and you can book them up to 60 days in advance. The earlier you book your Spartageskarte, the cheaper it is
Better view on the right side
During the journey towards Tirano, you have a better view of the sights in the direction of travel on the right. However, you cannot influence this when booking and need some luck to sit on the right side.
Shortened journey to Poschiavo and use of regional trains
If the whole trip to Tirano is too long for you, I can highly recommend the trip to Poschiavo. Poschiavo is a small village and is ideal for a delicious lunch. After that you can also continue to Tirano with the regional trains of the Rhaetian Railway. The other option is to take the regional trains back towards St. Moritz or Chur
Overnight stay in St. Moritz
Of course, an overnight stay in St. Moritz is also worthwhile. The region is a perfect starting point for numerous activities and hikes. So you can split your trip with the Bernina Express and enjoy the towns along the way.
InfoT(r)ainment
At every table on the Bernina Express you will find a flyer about InfoT(r)ainment on board. With your Bernina Express reservation, you benefit from discounts in restaurants or bakeries in some towns such as St. Moritz or Poschiavo
Early reservation
Are you planning a trip with the Bernina Express? Then I recommend you to reserve your seat as early as possible. Seats on the Bernina Express train and bus are limited and can be booked up quickly, especially in high season. You will receive your reservation up to 90 days in advance
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The trip with the Bernina Express was a unique experience for me. Since I had bad luck with the weather on my last trip with the Bernina Express in winter 2017, I was even more happy about the blue sky this time. I have already made a few panoramic trips by train in Switzerland. But the Bernina Express is on my place 1
The friendly and upbeat service of the stewards delighted me from the start and as a traveler I immediately felt welcome and comfortable.
Through the trip I got to know especially the Upper Engadine. In addition, I discovered many more excursions and hikes, which I hope to cross off my To Do list soon
I hope I could inspire you with my text about the Bernina Express. A trip is definitely worth it, because on very few train journeys in Switzerland you have such a diverse and dreamlike landscape.